Blog for Day 3: March 20th, 2015
The bar just got raised by an order of magnitude for this trip. We awoke this morning with a light snow falling on Olla Cove (pronounced O-sha in Argentine). Another very sound sleep was enjoyed by all. We are beginning to become accustomed to the space this comfortable ship affords but we have yet to get accustomed to the views that continually assault the eyes. Be it towering mountains draped with glaciers and snow or our winged companions that keep us company as we motor through this historic, rugged, beautiful landscape, we remain amazed. Standard fare in this part of the Channel are the Black-browed Albatross, Imperial Cormorants by the hundreds, Southern Fulmars, Giant Petrels, and the well-traveled Sooty Shearwaters which are at home in the waters off California as they seem to be here in the icy waters of the Beagle Channel.
A fairly short cruise this day ended as we entered Pia Cove. Our captain maneuvered the Ocean Tramp past glacial moraine debris that nearly blocks the entrance. Less than a mile into the cove, we came to the first of two glaciers that are responsible for the small icebergs we navigated as we delved further into the cove. At the terminus we were faced with the incredible sight of the Pia Glacier. Here Fede stopped the engine and we drifted along with the ice and watched and listened for the glacier to calve. Rewards for our patience were forthcoming as a 20 meter scarp of ice plunged into the milky green sea and presented us with a safe but exhilarating ride over the subsequent waves. A large bag of adjectives were required and even they fell short to describe the awe and wonder that we beheld. The skipper set off in the tender with a bevy of beauties that took turns crawling out onto the larger chunks of ice for photo shoots. The mothers might die of fright but we all enjoyed the antics as they posed atop the mini-bergs.
The day was not over. Fede had told us that dolphins were common in this cove so as we motored carefully back through the 5,000 year old ice cubes we were watchful for dorsal fins or a splash. Once again we were rewarded for our efforts. Just as we neared the anchorage, Peale’s Dolphins were spotted near the shoreline. To the delight of all they became animated as we approached, slicing the water with their dorsal fins and their leaps. This activity increased to a fever pitch when the tender was lowered and we motored around to place the stern lines that give added protection to our anchor.
Many members chose to go ashore for a hike in the woods but the author manned the tiller to get a better look at these amazing animals. As with their close cousins the White-sided Dolphins, the 3-5 Peale’s Dolphins were readily attracted to the moving Zodiac. Racing about and swimming beneath the boat they seemed to demand the boat to go faster. Their leaping bodies threw up spays of water as they vied for the supreme spot near the bow. I felt their excitement through the bottom of the boat. Exciting doesn’t begin to describe the feelings that echoed into the valley.
Coming back to reality and our evening meal we sat down to a splendid lentil stew, compliments of Alejandro who had forgone the hike in order to begin cooking a most welcome meal. We offer a toast from all of us to all of you who are following this grand escapade.
Gary
