Update from Ocean Tramp

After a false start, we landed on King George Island and were warmly greeted by Dave on the walk from the penguin plane. Thomas showed us the life jackets and minutes later we were in the dingy on the way to the Ocean Tramp. Emmanuel had the first of many excellent meals waiting for us.
The next day, we set sail for Mikkelsen Harbor near Trinity Island passing the iceberg and humpbacks. We saw humpbacks bubble netting en route. A third time visitor to Antarctica, Heather advised us to be on deck to experience the wildlife. We landed on Trinity Island and explored a colony of Gentoo penguins, whale bones, and whaler’s abandoned boats. It was our introduction to the smell of a penguin experience. Because Dave’s planned anchorage was blocked with ice, we sailed farther than planned to Murray Harbor. The surrounding cliffs were spectacular. Jess and Rob collected samples of from the moss on the bluffs to look for tardigrades. The group left after lunch and went on to Enterprise Island and docked next to the Guvernoren wreck. Lynne, Rob, and Jess polar plunged. The team hiked to the snowy top of the Enterprise Island with 360 degree views including whales in the sunset.
The following day Lynne, Rob, and Mark kayaked around the stunning scenery of the channels full of ice flows and icebergs, rounding a corner to meet a seal nearly face-to-face. After lunch, we sailed on to Port Lockroy. Near Emma Island, we saw an especially spectacular show of a breeching humpback moving closer to the bow of the boat over more than half an hour. That evening, we arrived to Port Lockroy late in the evening.
The next morning, we took the dingy to land to walk up a hill for astounding views of the anchorage. The ride back to the Ocean Tramp took longer than expected, because ice had moved into the harbor. After lunch, we visited Port Lockroy to see the first base on the Antarctic continent and send postcards back home. After lunch on the Ocean Tramp, we went back to land to observe the penguin colony and take in breath taking views of Peltier Channel. While watching the colony, we saw Minky whales and a Petrol attack and kill a penguin chick. We invited the staff of the Penguin Post Office and Orca hunters of the Australas over to the Ocean Tramp. We had a wonderful evening of food, Antarctic stories, and new friends.
Mark caught a glimpse of orca fins traveling in a pack. The next morning, we sailed through an icy Lemaire channel shrouded in fog to reinforce the atmosphere of unyielding wilderness. The Ocean Tramp braved the tricky pass through the iceberg graveyard – where the larger cruise ships had to turn back – with the spectacular contours of icy bergs sliding past the ship reflecting every shade of blue and white. The noise reverberated through the inside of the Ocean Tramp with exciting and tremendous sounds.
We arrived to a foggy Plenaeu Harbor with hundreds of seals on the ice sheets and Gentoo penguins. Lynne, Rob, and Jess kayaked around the icebergs. Thomas took Heather, Mike, Mark, and Richard on a zodiac ride to see the seals – laying meters from the boat at eye level on the flat ice flows. Then, we left for Paradise Bay. We moored up to enjoy the reflection of the surrounding snow-capped mountains in the mirror flat bay. We celebrated by collecting ice for drinks, polar plunged with a swim around the Ocean Tramp, and enjoyed the evening. We heard calving reverberate gently through the Ocean Tramp’s cabins through the night.
We woke the next morning to the amazing scenery. For now – what happens on Stony Point stays on Stony Point. However, a day never to be forgotten. The whole boat – except the crew – polar plunged for celebration. Then we headed back north, but changing winds forced a course change to go back to Enterprise Island in the snow with poor visibility. We pulled in and tied up to another boat.
Early the next morning, the crew woke up to several inches of snow on the deck of the boat and moorings. We sailed all day to Stancomb Cove at the far end of Deception Island. When we arrived, the light was fading and everything appeared black and white.
The next morning, was Richard’s 20th birthday. Emmanuel made his favorite food – bacon for breakfast. We went ashore and walked to the top of the crater, around it, and down the other side. Once back on the Ocean Tramp, we moved to Whaler’s Bay to explore the historical relics of the whaling station and hiked up to Neptune’s Window. Steam billowed off the bay onto the land and sulfur smelled lightly as proof of the volcanic activity on the island.
Richard and Mark celebrated the day with another polar plunge. Mark showed great comradeship and support with a dive and roll off the Ocean Tramp’s deck. We set sail for Half Moon Island. Thomas led us ashore to set up tents to sleep ashore. We returned to the Ocean Tramp for Richard’s birthday steak dinner – after nightfall we piled into the dinghy (flashlights in hand) to find our camp and tuck in for the night. It was a lovely night. We were warm in the tents and sleeping bags with a heavy snowfall overnight.
The next morning back on the Ocean Tramp, Emmanuel had warm porridge waiting for us onboard. The Ocean Tramp moved to Yankee Harbor to see the penguin chicks chase their parents for food while seals rolled lazily on the beach. The wind howled across the beach. Emmanuel had delicious soup, fresh bread, and savory quiche waiting for us when we got back to the Ocean Tramp. We continued north for King George Island. The sun came out and we saw a beautiful sunset reflected on the glaciers as we entered the bay. We completed a 590 mile loop through Antarctic’s stunning scenery and awe inspiring wildlife.
Lynne, Rob, Jess, Mike, Heather, Richard, Mark, and the crew – Dave, Thomas and Emmanuelle