Erin, Passenger
Day 8
We continue to stay in the protected anchorage near the Vernadsky Base tucked into a cove at Galindez Island. The friendly Ukranians at the base have been so gracious to allow us to stay in their zone.
First, we visited the Wordie House, part of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust whose goal is to conserve evidence of Antarctica’s history now and for the future. This base was built in 1947 as a research station and outpost for the UK. In the 1950s they moved out and constructed Faraday Base, which was sold to the Ukranians for a penny (a story for another day.)
Wordie House is perfectly preserved. Upon entering, you can smell the wet wood and feel the true darkness of long nights. The amount of coffee rations was astounding and everyone was impressed with the small details describing the history in visual delight like the typewriters and tide charts.
Our landing time slot allowed several hours, so we hiked to the top of a small piste and gained a view of the surrounding island. Icebergs were floating in the distance and gentoos went about their busy lives. We were inspired to create a dance video with most of the group (check out Instagram for the full length reel!)
After lunch and a little downtime, we headed to an appointment at the base. It was like stepping into a Wes Anderson movie set. Absolutely pristine cleanliness and curiosities filling the hall, with each door marked things like: Dental, Radio Room, Lounge, and Biology. We had a two hour tour and were able to get a small glimpse into the lives of the over winter scientists. The main theme is climate change and how this region is impacted by outside influences including a 4 degree C temperature lift, fluctuations in local wildlife species, and new types of algae growing in the freshwater of the glaciers.
The finale was a gracious moment of hospitality on the second floor lounge where we were able to relax a bit in a larger saloon, purchase a couple of items from their gift shop, and send post through their mail system (don’t expect anything for 3 months!)
Back on board the Ocean Tramp we dined on lentil stew, but the real highlight was the dessert. Traveling all the way from Denmark, Judith brought dough for Kransekage, which is a marzipan and almond baked treat. She made two batches, which were eaten within a short period of time while we finished a lively conversation full of laughter and radiant smiles.
Erin
