Hans Hansson – Passing the New Year Inside a Volcano

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Daily updates from the field

Linda, Passenger

Day 11 – December 31

The last day of the year started early, as the anchor was raised to begin the 10-hour crossing to Deception Island. The Bransfield Strait brought much rougher waters than we had experienced so far, so seasickness tablets were a wise precaution. Unfortunately, for some who were too optimistic (stubborn?), the tablets came too late.

Around 5 PM, we reached Deception Island, a collapsed volcano whose vast crater was flooded with seawater. The crater, surrounded by steep volcanic walls, offered a calm and sheltered spot to celebrate New Year’s Eve. Before the festivities began, we made a landing at Whaler’s Bay. True to its name, it contained the remains of a whaling station where whale oil was once processed. The decaying buildings, partially collapsed, stood as reminders of the past. On a small hill, two white crosses marked graves—a solemn scene against the backdrop of volcanic rock and a massive glacier. The glacier was blanketed by layers of volcanic ash, which acted as an insulating layer for the ancient ice beneath.

We spent some time exploring the area, following a clearly marked path toward Neptune’s Window. This natural opening in the crater wall required a short climb, but the effort was rewarded with breathtaking views of the sea and the sheer cliffs beyond.

Back on the HH, an amazing cheesecake awaited us. Scottie had outdone herself, with Becky also contributing to the festive evening. Together, they created a warm and inviting atmosphere with delicious food and drinks. Everyone gathered at the “Dutch Corner,” where passengers shared their New Year’s resolutions, as well as funny and embarrassing stories.

Time passed quickly, and just before midnight, everyone headed to the deck. In the soft glow of the Antarctic twilight, we raised our glasses of champagne and toasted the arrival of 2025. It was truly a magical place to welcome the New Year.

Day 12 – January 1

After a shorter-than-usual night, the day began with a landing at another location within the crater of Deception Island. Under Hugh’s guidance, we climbed a crater wall partially covered with snow and volcanic ash. Sadly, the mist was thick at the top, limiting visibility, but the climb was a refreshing workout and a great way to kick off the New Year.

After lunch, we made one final landing before departing Deception Island. This time, we explored a beach near the remains of an old Chilean research station. The beach was surrounded by striking black volcanic rocks mixed with red stones oxidized by iron. Patches of snow dotted the landscape, adding vibrant contrast to the colors. The active volcano made its presence known through rising steam, which escaped from warm freshwater pools flowing toward the sea. The warmth of the pools attracted wildlife, including curious penguins, a lounging Weddell seal, and skuas resting on the warm sand.

Some HH crew members and passengers couldn’t resist the opportunity to take a New Year’s plunge into the icy sea. While the Antarctic water quickly drove most back out, a few braved the small warm freshwater pools to recover. Despite the cold, the experience was invigorating and memorable.

This marked our final landing for the time being. The weather outside Deception Island’s sheltered waters had turned rough, making Zodiac landings too risky. The forecast suggested that choppy seas would continue into the next day, so seasickness tablets were taken in preparation.

The evening concluded with a spirited game of euchre (Linda and Hugh seeking revenge against Margaret and Rienk) and a wholesome meal to match New Year’s resolutions. After the previous night’s festivities, the saloon became quiet early, as everyone prepared for the journey’s last full day.

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