Matt, Passenger
Day 0
We are finally here! Our group of 11 adventurers and our super experienced Antarctica guide, Alex, finally made it to King George Island after a one-day delay because of some not-so-great weather. We were greeted at the beach and quickly whisked to and arrived at the Hans Hansson just in time for dinner.
After a yummy dinner of stew, the mandatory safety briefing and drill, and unpacking, we all went to bed to the soothing sound of the Hand Hansson the engine humming as we made our way in the twilight of an Antarctic night to our first destination in the South Shetland Islands – Half Moon Island.
Day 1
We awake for our first full day of exploring Antartica to low grey clouds, temperatures hovering around zero Celsius and little wind. So after a warm hearty breakfast and a dose of anticipation, we all embark on the Zodiacs to our first landing, Half Moon Island of the South Shetland Islands.
Stepping foot upon the rocky deserted beach, we prepare for our hike to explore the island as Alex begins his narration of what we are about to discover…a colony of Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins and other birds that call Half Moon Island their home.
With cameras and cell phones clicking away, we take in the views of an isolated and desolated island covered in rocks with little vegetation and yet there is a beauty of this rawness, ruggedness, filled with life as colonies of penguins and a smattering of fur seals lay claim to the island.
As we hike up a hill, we can see the Hans Hansson, our little home for nearly two weeks, at anchor in the sheltered bay and in the distance, we spy the jagged cloud shrouded mountains and glaciers of the South Shetland Islands. In our minds we think “how can anyone survive here? It is so raw.” There is nothing but rocks, water and small bits of vegetation, and yet an entire colony of penguins call this home along with a smattering of other birds and a dozen or so fur seals.
Up on the hillside, hundreds of Chinstrap penguins have made their homes, looking out over the island. As we get closer, we stop to take in the surroundings, observing, taking in the raw beauty, clicking away, and we can hear the music of hundreds of these black and white creatures living and thriving on this rock.
Alex quizzes us as to why the penguins choose the higher ground far from the water and their food source. Is it for protection…Because the beach is too rocky…for a better view? We answer. No, it is because it is windier up there and the snow gets swept away making for better nesting and easier to lay and hatch eggs….ahhh the details of living in the wild.
As the sounds and the smell of hundreds of penguins fill our senses, we come across the Penguin Highway, the route the penguins take from their hillside homes to the sea over moss covered dirt, pebbles and large rocks that make even humans walk with care. We step aside and observe the “Penguin Parade” of these little birds making their way down to the sea and back from the sea. One to four at a time making the trek up and down the highway, hopping carefully from rock to rock, pausing momentarily to survey their next step, passing silently another colony member as they either go to sea to feed or head back to the colony to feed their young.
The next hour or two, we spend watching, observing and documenting the wildlife on this desolate island before heading back to our home on the sea. Next stop, Edinburgh Hill after lunch.
During lunch, we’ve moved a bit further away and are now at our second stop for the day, Edinburgh Hill. It’s a cool basalt rock formation that sticks out of the sea. From our Zodiacs, we’re checking it out. It looks a bit like Devil’s Tower in Wyoming, which was in the movie Close Encounters.
We’re heading back to the Hans Hansson, but not before we collect some ultra-clear glacier ice that would be the envy of any fancy bar in New York City, floating gracefully in the sea. We’ll use it to make our Gin and Tonics during dinner. Just a heads up, when you’re looking for the perfect piece of clear glacier ice, the biggest one isn’t always the best. You’ll need to get the ice into the Zodiac, and then from the Zodiac to the HH…ice is slippery!
After a quick move, we’ve finally reached our cozy spot for the night in Yankee Harbor. From the deck, we can see thousands of Gentoo Penguins waddling around, both close to the shore and on the hillside. And along the water’s edge, seals are spotted like big pieces of dark brown driftwood.
As we make our last stop for the day, we navigate through the sea of Gentoo Penguins, taking our time to observe and snap some pictures. The little chicks are so curious and slowly approach us.
Alex leads us to a group of elephant seals lying together on the sand. They’re just chillin’ out, oblivious to the penguin colony around them. But a couple of them will look up at us, the newbies to the island…and then they’ll give us those big puppy eyes and close their eyes back to their nap.
The Gentoo colony is buzzing with life! Penguins are singing to the sky, young chicks are chasing after their parents, and three skuas are circling a single chick, hoping to get a tasty meal. But the chick is no pushover! It stands its ground, bravely facing off against the skuas. Once the skuas fly away, the chick quickly runs over to its mates for safety.
We head back to the Zodiac, but we didn’t forget to spend some time with the fur and Weddell seals. They were so cute and playful!
As we step back onto the ship, we’re greeted with refreshing Gin and Tonics and freshly harvested glacial ice. After an exciting first day in Antarctica, we enjoy a delicious dinner and cozy up in our comfortable bunk beds for a well-deserved rest.
Cheers and Ciao for now,
Matt
