One “problem” with the Antarctic in the summer is the amount of daylight. It messes with your system – we eat dinner way later than we ever intend, we wake up earlier than we want to and we never get enough time to sit down and write blog entries as we are too busy soaking it all in.
Our last update was from the Chilean Base, Gonzalez Videla in Paradise Bay where Giff’s “day 11” update left us a bit iced in at our anchorage and stopped then for the night.
Nature is always king here and its always better to listen to nature and sit tight when she ices you in. By the next morning the clouds had gone, the winds had shifted, and the ice had moved enough to let us through and we left the chilean base to head for the Argentine base 6 miles further south. Thank goodness we could not get out the previous night. With the new day we were able to hike up the hill behind the Argentine base and enjoy Paradise Bay in all its splendor (had we gone the day before it would have been cloudy, windy and fairly bitter). At the top of the hill we took some time and sat there in silence, pondering the beauty, trying to soak it all in, watching a sheathbill poke fun of a skua. A glorious day. Meanwhile Casey, our scientist was down below in his “ghostbuster” suit taking readings to find the spectral signature of the different substrates.
Early afternoon we said our good byes and left Paradise Bay to head for Port Lockroy, where we dropped anchor for the night. We were lucky enough to have Laura and Iain of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT) join us for dinner. The UKAHT keeps the buildings at Port Lockroy in tip top condition as well as a handful of other old bases up and down the peninsula. It’s a
living museum arranged as if scientists from the 1950’s had just stepped outside and forgot to return. They regaled us with stories from the season while we shared stories of our journey. It was a fun evening of good food and excellent company.
The next morning in Port Lockroy, we launched the kayak along with the Zodiac to go explore Jougla point, where there are penguins and remnants that whalers were once here. Just before lunch we went ashore to explore Bransfield House, the old station at Port Lockroy. Thanks to Adele & her team for explaining the history of the building and operation. We may have
also left with a few more penguin woolly hats and Souvenirs than when we arrived and we all definitely sent our share of post cards from the famous penguin post office.
The clouds and winds rolled in again so we spent the afternoon at anchor – however not to worry, we were well entertained. First we watched a BBC film – the Penguin Post Office – about… Port Lockroy and a film crew spending a whole season at the base following the life cycle of the penguins. A fitting film for the evening. That was followed by an excellent presentation by Casey about the the history of whaling in the Antarctic and then almost topped by Erik’s amazing Curry dinner.
Tomorrow IF the winds cooperate its off to visit Palmer Station, the U.S. Base in the Antarctic Peninsula. We are really hoping the winds cooperate, since we had such a great visit 3 years ago. Again – we will have to follow nature.
Laura – Expedition Leader
