Today was one of those days that make it all worth while, a textbook bluebird day with glittering sun and calm waters. The next time someone tells me to go to my happy place, this is where my thoughts will wander. I didn’t dare to pinch my arm and run the risk waking up from this paradise.
The day was started touring the nearby icebergs in the dinghy while Casey sampled and counted the penguin population at the nearby colony (3500 chicks…) The bravest passengers climbed onto a floating iceberg one at a time to pose for the bragging picture of the year. We were invited to the nearby Primavera base so after lifting the anchor we headed north again a few miles. This Argentinian base is a little piece of paradise on a moss laden point surrounded by calving glacier fronts. The water outside is full of marine life swimming around or basking on the icebergs that fill the bay. We were given a comprehensive tour including coffee and the mandatory Argentinean Mate, and we left just as they were preparing the Asado for Saturday lunch. Gracias a la gente amable del base pro la visita fantastica!
As people were dozing in the lounge after lunch, Captain Funny stuck his head down from the helm asking “who would like to see some orcas”, only to break out in a smug grin a few seconds later admitting to false alarm, responding “me too!”. 15 minutes later I am guiding the Tramp through the Gerlache Strait when the characteristic spray of a breathing whale appears abeam. Whale alarm is again sounded but people do not like to get fooled twice and refused to come up as the tail fin waved a final goodbye before disappearing into the blue.
As we slowly glided through the Graham Passage surrounded by glacier walls and high peaks, the dinghy was launched and the competition to take the next Quixote Expeditions postcard was initiated.
After a long day of sunshine and ear-to-ear smiles we approached Enterprise island and our mooring for the night, the Norwegian whaling boat Guvernoren. It was deliberately run aground over a hundred years ago to save the crew and cargo after catching on fire during end of season celebrations. It now lies as an eerie monument of days past, and serves as one of the safest harbors in the Antarctic peninsula.
To top off an already perfect day, we ended in style with a full Saturday night roast, including flambéed pineapple for dessert. Minds and bellies were filled to the brim when the silence of the night finally spread onboard our floating home.
Erik, crew
