Matis, Deckhand
Day 7
We wake up in a different place, we reached it yesterday evening well after dinner. With less than perfect weather, it’s a great day to visit another Antarctic station – operated by the USA this time.
Station manager Bob welcomes us at Palmer Station, and shows us around.
The gift shop was well stocked, and gave us all some no-brainer gifts ideas. It’s a rule that any object (hat, cap, mug, water bottle) with the map of Antarctica on it becomes instantly cooler (and knowing it was purchased at a real live Antarctic base!)
On the way out of the base we spot a giant iceberg hidden in the mist. Fascinated by this object (the nightmare of any polar sailor), we hang out with it for a bit, observing the way it seems to create its own light from within.
The rest of the day is spent cruising across the Gerlache straight, and the crew is busy safely navigating these iceberg-filled waters in the thick fog (remember I said it was a good day to visit a base!).
The peaks play hide and seek with us, but they sometimes let their guard down.
There is no wind and the fog wraps around the boat slowly: it is sort of like floating in a hazy dream. We find refuge in the warmth of the saloon and a good card game.
(Jeneen almost goes 13 hands undefeated but sadly chokes at the end).
Day 8
As we wake up, the conditions have greatly improved, and the sun has long been shining on our anchorage.
For breakfast there some special cookies in the shape of seals and penguins were made by Scottie!
We start cruising towards Neko harbour, passing on our starboard side the Chilean base Videla.
As we observe the eerie icebergs passing by, we get closer to our landing spot of the afternoon: Cuverville.
Previously closed because of the possible presence of avian flu, it reopened just in time for us to visit.
It is home for one of the largest gentoo penguin colony on the peninsula, and the beach is also full of whale bones.
This is a very cool display of vertebrae and a lower mandible bone. From certain angles it almost looks like a tree trunk washed up on the beach, the only problem is that the nearest tree is more than 1000km away!
We share the beach with a french couple that came from the sailboat anchored in a small creek. They have sailed down from Patagonia as a family and are now discovering this part of Antarctica.
Back on board we are blessed with an incredible display of whales feeding.
We saw them dive down as a group of two, three, or four, and shortly after lunge to the surface with their mouth wide open, and ending up on their sides with their fins in the air.
The coolest stuff always happens in the least adequate moment, and in this case it was right during dinner!
The whales stayed a long time with us, until they disappeared on the horizon, in the evening light.
Matias Moana Guerrero
