Hans Hansson – Extraordinary Day’s End

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Daily updates from the field

Linda, Passenger

Day 9 – December 29

The day started normally, but it ended in an extraordinary way.

In the morning, we sailed Danko Island. We had been there before, but today the skies were clear, and the view from the hill (a small “mountain” about 200 meters) was far more interesting. So, up we went! Our group consisted of the same people: Frans, Rienk, Hugh, Margaret, and me. The hike was about 1.2 km through soft, powdery snow, which made for a challenging climb. But the view from the top was exactly what we had hoped for.

From there, we could see the island from all sides. Small islands dotted the bay, and the beginnings of caves were forming in the ice wall across the way. We also closed up any postholes we had made in the snow that could be hazardous for penguins. Surprisingly, this was a lot of fun! Of course a thorough cleaning of our gear was needed (to be safe).

That evening, we embarked on a Zodiac cruise. The HH crew had spent the entire day scanning the area for an Emperor Penguin, one of which had been spotted nearby in Charlotte Bay. We got lucky—a solitary penguin was resting on the sea ice near the water’s edge, almost as if it had been waiting for us. At first, it appeared to be relaxing, but after a brief encounter with a humpback whale, it suddenly stood up.

The humpback was a spectacle in itself. Frans and Linda ventured far out of the Zodiac to capture a photo of the penguin with the humpback in the background.

We continued our journey through stunning icebergs, each one uniquely shaped. The calm sea reflected the ice beautifully, making for artistic photographs. At one point, a humpback whale surfaced right in front of us, its dorsal fin and fluke perfectly timed as it emerged from the water.

Farther along, we spotted a crabeater seal resting on an ice floe, its neck and flipper bearing scars from what appeared to be a previous encounter with another seal. Nearby, a group of about twenty Adélie penguins had gathered on a piece of drifting ice. Their reflections in the water created a mesmerizing scene with the snow-covered mountains in the background.

The grand finale of the evening came as the Zodiac maneuvered toward a group of humpback whales. With guidance from Voy, we moved closer to the whales, which seemed as curious about us as we were about them. For the next half hour, the whales treated us to an incredible display. They dove gracefully, waved their fins, and circled the krill before swallowing them in a single gulp.

The experience reached its peak when two of the whales swam directly under our boat. Its massive, black-and-white body, three times the size of our Zodiac, filled us with awe. The adrenaline rush of witnessing such enormous creatures up close stayed with us long after the encounter. Back on the Hans Hansson we learned that guests/crew that stayed behind were also treated with a beautiful close visit by a whale.

To celebrate these unforgettable moments, we enjoyed a drink (or two) while replaying the videos of the adventure. It was a perfect way to end the day!

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